Measure your walls from top to bottom. deduct 1/8"-1⁄4" from total height.
open your MLV on the floor. Use a practical knife and a ruler to hold one
A square edge passes through the MLV. evenly you don't need to cut the material completely, once it is scored, it will be easy to separate. MLV can also be cut with heavy duty scissors.
For better sound insulation, use an acoustic outlet liner
all power outlets and other barriers.
This step requires the work of two people.
The MLV is applied over the fiberglass installation and beneath the sheetrock.
With the help of another, hold the MLV in place, starting at the upper corner of the
wall. Ensure the sheet is straight along the ceiling and is evenly spaced between the
floor and ceiling
Fasteners: Any type of fastener will work (especially if the MLV will be covered with
drywall) we suggest roofing nails or screws with washers, however you can
also use a pneumatic cap stapler.
Placement: Place fasteners every 8” along the top and bottom plate and
along the length of the stud.
Be careful not to cover electrical outlets boxes. It is best to expose the outlets boxes
as you install each length of MLV.
Find the electrical box in your wall and gently press the MLV against the box. Using a
razor blade carefully cut the opening along the edges of the box. Keep this hole tight
as possible to the electrical box so that you maintain a good seal.
Any extra gaps can be filled with Acoustical Caulk.
Continue as above until your entire wall or ceiling is covered in MLV.
Where MLV seams fall on a stud, butt pieces against one
another on the stud and fasten into place. You can add a
strip of PVC Tape on the seam.
We highly recommend that you end all MLV seams on a
stud, as free hanging seams may come apart with time.
Where MLV seams falls between studs, overlap pieces by 2” and tape
seams with PVC Tape or similar tape.
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